Monday, August 24, 2009

A UNESCO marvel








Agreed, we all know that beloved France is, in its entirety, a gastro capital and a picture-perfect phenomenon. But i'm still on a Dordogne-specific kick...

What's the frill in Dordogne when measured against the astounding beaches of the French Riviera or the  infamous vineyards of Burgundy and Champagne? Well, unbeknownst it to many, including myself until only a few months ago, Dordogne is also a historical jewel, an outdoor adventurer's chocolate elixir, and an artist's Camille Claudel. 

The area's roughly 60 prehistoric sites are, indeed, registered by UNESCO. The most notable MUST SEE's would certainly be the many caves of the province, home to the relatively recently discovered (20th C) Cro Magnum cave drawings, some dating back to 14 AD. Perhaps a pony sketch doesn't do it for you...well, take a moment to rethink. Those rhinoceros, mammoth and deer drawings date far back beyond even the Taj or the pyramids, realized in incredibly inhospitable, cold, black caves, by artisans who crafted their own tools out of animal furs and oils, and nevertheless painted with such impeccable accuracy and mastery. That's Not Nothing. 

I was most inspired by Le Cave de Rouffignac and Font de Gaume, both offering fantastic tour guides who know their shnizzle. Font de Gaum provides more intimate tours of 15-20 max, thus enabling a more personal experience as well as dynamic dialogue with individual guides. Ours did a wonderful job explaining the various hypotheses as to why these non-cave dwellers chose these particular caves for their chef d'oeuvres, as did he also explain the intricacies of various drawings, such as how the Cro Magnums used the natural curvatures of the cave to enhance the credibility of various paintings. Rumor has it that some of these drawings later became the inspiration to loads of Renaissance masters. I, myself, can't draw to save my life, but You should nonetheless be sure to check these caves out,  and be more certain to reserve in advance. 

Adventuring onward, Dordogne also proposes fabulous day-trips and activities. My favorites:

canoeing down the Dordogne amongst the most gorgeous valleys and centerfold French villages ...

trekking way up, up, up until reaching the Chateau de Beynac, a bold,  medieval chateaux from the 100 Years' War, overlooking a beauteous Beynac below...

hikking alongside a mini-waterfall in Carennac, yet another charming village... (And also take a peek at neighbors, Loubressac and Autoire).

And you already know that I'm keen on the menus of the region, but for other  hands-on, foodie adventures:

Toss some baguette and hazelnuts to a wild boar or two at a local rilette farm. Or, if you can handle it, visit a Fois Gras farm and watch how the geese are fed and fois gras hence cultivated. It's important to see it if you're going to later eat it. Or, if you can't swallow either of the above, a leisurely afternoon of wine tasting certainly never offended anyone...

That's all for me. Off you go...


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